Chiang Rai, Thailand’s northernmost province, is also known as the ‘gateway to the golden triangle.’ Straddling the most important historical crossroads of northern South East Asia the fusion and blend of tribal societies from China, Laos, Burma and North Thailand can be seen in temple ruins dating back to the 14th century, read in Lanna-style murals and evidenced in the traditions, crafts, music and lifestyle of its people.
Only twenty years ago the main source of trade amongst the hill tribes of Chiang Rai was opium lending the region a reputation as a wild outpost of Thailand. With the development of road schemes linking isolated communities to the highways of China and beyond along with the replacement of opium for sustainable crops such as tea, coffee and fruit Chiang Rai has caught up with its more affluent neighbors to the south.
The rains bouncing off the road and the skies are grumbling when I role into Chiang Rai and begin the daily routine of searching for a guest house. As usual for Thailand it’s easy to find a cheap, clean and convenient room for around $5 a night. The owner, spotting a potential ‘cash cow’ does his best to impress me with his ‘cockney slang’ skills.
“Cor blimey mate, you from London, luverly juberly.”
Cockney slang can be fairly humorous when spoken by a non-native Brit but the cheerful banter soon dries up when I assure him I don’t need a tour guide to accompany me round the night market nor an elephant to lead me through the jungle. But I will have some of the comfort food that’s on offer; a banana pancake and a glass of cold coffee with a dollop of ice cream on top.
Today Thailand is a land of convenience for travelers and tourists alike. From south to north the traveler’s trail through Thailand has been carpeted for our convenience thereby eliminating what can be the most rewarding aspect of travel; the challenge to deal with a little hardship and to learn how to live without some of the creature comforts we take for granted. To experience authentic Thailand today its necessary to step aside from ‘the banana pancake trail’ and fight off the attention of tour guides who’ll insist if there’s no beaten track or organized trek up a scenic pass then there’s “no trekking.” Likewise if there’s no camping what’s really meant is there’s no canvass holiday camp with soft toilet paper and ready-made meals.
Call me ‘an old fart’ if you will but there was a day when trekking and camping, for young people at least, meant exploring un-trodden paths, experiencing a little hardship and breaking free from the tangled web of the modern world.
Back at the guest my affable host does his best to persuade me to book a two-day trek up to the hill tribes.
“Please, you should come. Everything is included, nothing to worry about.”
Everything included! Nothing to worry about! Where’s the fun in that? Tomorrow I’ll leave behind Thailand and follow the road less traveled into Laos.
‘At the Mekong River that separates Thailand from Burma.’
LAOS coming next
‘In the border town of Huay Xai young kids use a pick up truck as a climbing frame while a backpacker spots the elixir of his travels, Beer Laos.’
